Day 1, Tuesday April 1
The contingent of Sydney riders meets at Menai at 9am. That’s Shane, Brad and me. Bit different to the proposed 14 – but, in many ways, a lot easier to manage. No need for UHF, corner markers or restaurant bookings.
Our first stop is Heatherbrae Pies at Sutton Forest where we collect our southern contingent – Craig and Mark. Sam had to pull out at the last minute after suffering glitches with his brand-new GS1300.
From Sutton Forest Day 1 is really just a long haul to get to our real starting poing – Albury. We fule-up at Yass and stop at Barney’s for lunch. The new timed speed section near Gundagai is now in force for all vehicles so we start to set the precedent for the rest of the 9 days where we really try to ensure we don’t exceed the speed limits.
We pull in to Albury early afternoon to the Commodore Motel right in the centre of town. There’s time for a walk around before we head for dinner at the club which is just through the motel gate. All too easy.
Looking forward to the rides starting Day 2 which will be an exploration rather than a destination.
Day 2, Wednesday April 2 – Hume Weir and Murray River Rd
Our 9am departure time is highlighted by blue skies and 15 degrees – which feels more like 5. This is highlighted after our first stop – Hume Weir where some Tasmanian tourists helped us take a photo…. and then commented on how cold it is. That has to say something.
From the dam we follow Lake Hume and cross the Bethanga bridge then follow the Murray River Rd to Granya. It’s a beautiful ride…highlighted by the ghostly stumps of dead trees in the Weir water.
From Granya we go over the “mountain” and on to Tallangatta bakery for brunch. I remember tussling with the European wasps when we were here before. They’re still a problem and somehow seem attracted by the bikes – perhaps because of the squashed bugs on the screens and motors?
After Tallangatta we again follow the road around Lake Hume and on to Bonegilla where we take some time to visit the migrant camp which gives insights into Australia’s migrant history after WW2. The stop is very worthwhile- and is quite an eye-opener when you hear the numbers that passed through the camp post the war.
We then head back to Albury and have free time in the afternoon before heading to the Star pub for an excellent meal and drinks combo.
In summary – a really nice riding day compared to Day 1 – especially the Granya Road part.
Day 3 Thursday April 4 – Albury – Echuca
Day three Of Pirate’s April Fool’s Ride. The day began bright and sunny beginning with a visit to the Albury War Memorial. It’s at the top of a hill overlooking the town and was officially opened 100 years ago this month – on ANZAC Day 1925. As always a poignant tribute to the sacrifices made.
It was west from here through Corowa before crossing into Victoria for our morning appointment at Stanton & Killeen Wines for a tour of the cellar with wine tasting and an extensive platter. Obviously most of us were careful not to get too generous with the samples on offer with a couple of hours riding still in front of us. Good fun and well worth a visit.
Leaving the winery behind we pushed on to Echuca. Weather was cooperating with pleasant conditions and the Victorian roads are generally in better condition than our usual roads. We were expecting straight roads for this section of the trip and we weren’t disappointed. No problem however as it meant we would be arriving for our appointment at the Great Australian Beer Shed in plenty of time. The property looked a little quiet on arrival. However Neil, the owner, had agreed to open for our ever shrinking group so we parked and waited. After a short time our leader decided he should call to see about our scheduled visit. When checking emails for the phone number Pirate realised he’d brought us here a day early. Oops. Apologies to the troops Therefore this report does not have a review. That will appear in the report tomorrow – the ACTUAL day booked.
Back on the road and it was a short 10 minute ride to our motel in Echuca. After a walk around Echuca, dinner and drinks were at the close by American Hotel. Another great day and looking forward to tomorrow.
Cheers Red
Day 4, Friday April 5 – Echuca
Our second day in Echuca and as we did almost no riding today so this can best be described as a trip report.
Another great day greeted us and this morning we set sail for a cruise on the Mighty Murray on the paddle steamer PS Pevensey – one of the many paddle steamers that can still be found on the Murray. What surprised me was the number of vessels that were privately owned.
PS Pevensey is still steamed powered whereas a number of paddle wheelers have been converted to diesel power which obviously is modernising but not as ‘romantic’ as a chugging steam monster.
For the nerds reading this the Pevensey is 110 tons, was designed to carry 130 tons of deck cargo and tow a barge carrying another 130 tons of goods. The steam engine produces a ‘monstrous’ 20 nominal horsepower but a massive amount of torque powering two paddles.. She will burn a tonne of wood a day but when she was operational she burned a ton of wood every two hours! She is a beautiful piece of engineering as are many of the other paddle wheelers that can be seen on the river.
The cruise over we did a wander through Echuca for a couple of hours and the size of the town was a bit of a surprise.
We actually got back on the bikes for a ride of 10 minutes out of town to the Great Aussie Beer Shed and Heritage Museum where mine host, Neil Thomas, greeted us on our arrival (which was actually our second arrival having called in the day before only to be told we were a day early! Oops!).
Greetings were out of the way, Neil offered us a beer and a stubby holder and directed us to the heritage part of the museum. Neil has accumulated a lot of old farming and industrial equipment that is seen on the walk around but the piece de resistance for me was in the shed. An EH, and FE and a HD Holden, Torana and a Mini Cooper S to top it off.
Back to the main shed for the cornerstone of the visit where Neil gave the visitors a talk on his collections including the oldest and most expensive beer can in the world (and expensive it was costing thousands). Worth noting that Neil was President of the Beer Can Collectors for many years so he is an expert and knows what’s what when it comes to beer cans.
Neil and his BIG personality made for a great show and talk and this report cannot do Neil’s collection justice; suffice to say that apart from beer can collection of over 50,000 cans he has amassed an impressive and nostalgic collection of pieces. Luckily Neil’s reputation helped save a piece of history with the Carlton and United Breweries’ horse drawn wagon being given to Neil as the new owners, Asahi, did not appreciate its history. A visit to the Great Aussie Beer Shed is highly recommended.
We have been impressed with Echuca and it was another great stop of Pirate’s Murray River Odyssey. What trip will he think to organise next?
Day 5, Saturday April 6 – Echuca to Swan Hill
A 9am start, we were all on time and left a few minutes early. With 5 bikes we rode to a local servo and fuelled up for the day, easy enough as we each get a pump. Once we exited Echuca the road out was straight, straight and more straight.
Our stop for morning tea was at the Big Cohuna Waffles Cafe. I was looking forward to a bacon roll and instead went for the bacon waffle, which included vanilla ice cream and maple syrup. Heart stopping, but you have to live dangerously. An interesting cafe which had a robot delivering the food, good service and reasonably priced. After a chat with two other motorcycle travellers, a father and son, we continued our ride. More straight roads.
Roger, though, had an evil plan. He turned right and started following the farm roads, straight, but punctuated with 90 degree turns as paddock ownership changed. My eyes lit up as we entered an unsealed section, but these were short sections. Roger had previously checked with everyone in the group that they were comfortable riding these unsealed roads and in we went. Then the section lengthened, I was bike 5 and could see it went for several kilometres. I could take no more. After passing everyone then enjoying the open spaces, it came to an end, just 1.5km after passing Roger. I dejectedly pulled over and let the other four pass me and resumed my TEC role for this section.
We soon arrived at the Lake Boga Flying Boat museum. A maintenance base set up soon after Darwin was bombed in the second world war. Not too big a museum, but worth the entrance fee. The guide was excellent, very enthusiastic. The short documentary film was a decent history lesson and we also had lunch there. A few of the original constructions remain and the lake is still a favourite for water sports. I was amazed at how circular the lake is in such a flat landscape.
A quick photo stop at the silo art depicting the Flying Boats and we made our way to Swan Hill and the motel for the night. After a few hours of personal time, we walked through the back fence gate to the pub for a 6pm meal. Pretty impressive pub, it was well patronised by the locals, meals were delivered exceptionally fast. Four of us decided to walk the 20 minutes to the Pioneer Museum for the 8.30pm laser light and water show. A short history of the Murray. Very clever – but not cheap. A pity the reconstructed village wasn’t open at the same time. They do, however, alternate two shows so if you go to both on consecutive nights you can get the discounted ticket or plan the timing of your visit for the show you want to see. A short walk back to the motel after the show, passing the famous Swan Hill Fig Tree and we called it an early night.
Mark Price
Day 6, Sunday April 8 – Swan Hill to Bendigo
This is THE major ride day away from the Murray. We head first to the very small town Sea Lake – a quick 70 km from Swan Hill. Lake Tyrell is a few kilometres outside town and we head there first. This is an inland salt lake where they actually harvest and process the salt for sale. Impressive. I always thought South Australia and WA had the only salt lakes. Wrong.
A couple of other tourists at Lake Tyrell tell us that the cafe (as in THE only cafe) in Sea Lake does a good bacon and egg roll and good coffee. So we head there (well we need to go back that way anyway). The tourists were right. Great cafe. After refreshments we head to the Sea Lake silo art just out of town. The Silos were painted by Joel Fergie and Travis Vinson in October 2019. The artwork depicts a girl swinging from mallee eucalyptus. I rate the Lake Boga art better – but just how talented are these artists to paint murals like these on silos!
From here we head to the next silo art which is on our way to Bendigo – at Sheep Hills. The artwork at Sheep Hills are the fifth silos to be included in the Australian Silo art trail. Adnate, the artist, has spent much of his career telling the stories of Indigenous people and their native lands by painting murals of them across Australia.
Adnate’s mural is of a Wergaia Elder named Uncle Ron Marks, along with a Wotjobaluk Elder, Aunty Regina Hood. They both stand beside two young children, Savannah Marks and Curtly McDonald. The silos were painted in 2016.
The ride to Sheep Hills has been L-O-N-G and straight. I wouldn’t choose to do this section again. We also need fuel and, being a Sunday, open places are scarce. We had planned to go to Stawell and refuel but instead decide on a quicker route to Bendigo.
There is ONE fuel stop at nearby Minyip. It’s an automated fuel station and has diesel and ULP 91. That’s it, baby. So – we top up the tanks (as opposed to re-fuelling) and head off through St Arnaud to Bendigo.
We arrive in Bendigo in the early afternoon and so have time for a look around town. We are booked in to the local Italian restaurant for dinner and meet up again as a group there.
They, of course, have no record of our booking – but still manage to fit us in and we sit on the upstairs balcony and have a great non-pub, non-club dinner.
After dinner we hit the gelato shop for dessert – and then fade away to our accommodation for the evening.
Pirate
Day 7, Monday April 9 – No-Ride day in Bendigo
It’s cold today. REALLY cold to the point where Craig is looking to the Op shops for an extra layer. We’ve bought tram tickets on the tourist tram which basically travels form the Central Deborah mine through the centre of town and then out the north side. Good way to see some sights. So we hop on the first tram of the day and head to the Central Deborah Mine where our tram ticket allows us to wander the grounds of the mine. Interesting to know that a nearby gold mine is still working – having produced 125,000kg of gold up to 2024. Also interesting to note that the Central Deborah Mine was open for a century with one single fatality in all that time.Brad is a stickler for reading all the info. Any questions – ask Brad.
Back on the tram to experience the whole journey. We’re armed with our wrist bands…so why not? Thereafter a wander around town and through the mall. It’s the first Monday of the school holidays here so you’d expect things to be bustling. Oh no. The mall is all but empty. Lots of shops have closed down. It’s very sad for such an important city.
We split up and I look around the city centre – from the Alexandra fountain in the centre to Rosalind park which includes the poppet head lookout…. which is closed. Past the oldest public conservatory in Victoria. The gardens here are lovely.
We reconvene as a group for our dinner which is Indian as researched by Mark. It’s rates 4.5 so has to be good. And it is. It’s followed by obligatory ice cream.
Then back to the room to pack in preparation for an 8.30 getaway in the morning.
Day 8, Tuesday April 10 – Bendigo to Beechworth
This morning is clear, blue skies and not as cold as expected. It’s 15 degrees as we leave and we’re dressed for the predicted 10 degrees.
Fuel up then leave Bendigo …. and pull over to wait while Mark repairs a mysterious Bluetooth issue that wiped his maps. Then on through Rushworth to Kialla using lots of secondary roads. So much better than the highways. As per many of the days the scenery is beautiful and riding the secondary roads makes the experience that much more satisfying. I have the bike GPS and the phone’s Google maps – but every now and then it’s handy that I have studies the route and thus ignore the advice from the devices and go the way I believe is best. That technique served me well as we didn’t get lost once on the whole trip. I did take a wrong turn leaving Albury – but that was corrected straight away (with “do a u-turn where possible” ringing in my ears).
To the Museum of Vehicle Evolution (MOVE) at Kialla (just outside Shepparton) ….including lots of Fords, penny farthings and dress items from previous centuries – including a purse made from an armadillo and another from snake skin with the head still attached.
After the museum we head off through Benalla to Glenrowan where the Pirate flag is hoisted at Ned’s feet. The bell rings across the street to signal a performance starting. We resist their invitation (quite easily). Lunch includes scones and jam.
We hit the Beechworth motel about 2.30 and then head for our 3pm tour at the Last St brewery. Michael guided us (brilliantly) through the history and we get to taste EVERYTHING. The cordials are now Isabella’s because Coca Cola bought the brand Billsons (sad fact). That’s why since 1872 it was Billsons but now it’s Last St. This place is really worth the visit. Actually Beechworth itself deserves more time than I allocated. An extra night would have been better.
Dinner tonight at the Nicholas pub next to our motel.
Day 9, Wednesday April 11 – Beechworth to Gundagai
The penultimate day of Pirate’s Murray River Adventure saw us waking up to another blue sky day. We will be leaving Victoria today but not before we track the Murray further east towards the headwaters. All riders were ready at the scheduled 9am departure time and we went to refuel but lost two on the way. A first for this trip.
After refuelling we waited on the outskirts of Beechworth and then headed to Yackandandah where Craig found us. Mark will meet us at our first break and has headed off alone.
The route today is a short hop to Tallangatta for a coffee where we were all united again. Roger’s plan was to follow the Murray River where possible so from Tallangatta we headed east along Murray River Road skirting around the mostly dry Hume Weir reservoir to the bridge at Jingellic where we crossed back into New South Wales. We then headed on a very scenic route through the edge of the Snowy through to Batlow Bakery for lunch. This must be the cheapest cafe in Australia. I had a huge chicken and salad sandwich and a milkshake for $10.50. The price of the sandwich these days at most cafes.
After lunch we continued on through Tumut then on to Gocup Road to our overnight stop in Gundagai. Great day through some nice country in perfect riding weather again. Our final dinner for the trip was at the Family Hotel where we enjoyed a couple of ales and good food. This is my last report for the trip so thanks to Roger for a well organised ride and to the others who came along to make an enjoyable 10 days.
Day 10, Thursday April 12 – Gundagai to Goulburn and home
It’s our last day – and I feel pretty pleased that the itinerary for the whole trip has gone really well (at least I think so).
Today we head to Young for a quick stop at Poppa’s where you can buy the world’s best cherry jam. Craig buys Jen some chocolates as a “thank-you” for his time away. Hey Jenny, how many chocolates did you get?
From Young it’s on to Boorowa for mornos. Mark decides to push on and leaves us to our farewells.
Boorowa to the paragon cafe for lunch and the four remaining riders say their goodbyes and talk about t-shirt sizes to commemorate the 3rd Pirate Ride.
Thanks for the company, boys. I had a ball. Hope you all did too.
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1 to 10 April 2025: Murray River Ride Report
